It is that time of the year—the weather turns cool, leaves turn yellow and red and I turn greedy. Autumn food does that to me—glossy brown chestnuts just waiting to be roasted, fragrant mushrooms screaming to be sliced and sautéed with some garlic and parsley, knobbly truffles ready to infuse their rich, musky aroma to juicy cubes of beef strewn with parmesan flakes. And if the autumnal crop wasn’t enough, there are all the festivals—nearly every Italian village dusts the buntings, clears up the main square and puts up an open air celebration of anything from chocolate, wild boar and wine, to polenta, porcini and pumpkins. Unknown places like Soriano nel Cimino (the backdrop of a chestnut sagra with historic re-enactment between 3 and 19 October), Morbegno (where the Bitto cheese festival has been held for the last two...
[read full story]