Dining Out: New Sensations

Oct 19, 2009
 

The Lula duo takes Pilsen, Kleiner takes Old Town—and everyone else takes notice From the top down: peach butter cake, raspberry-lemon curd, and assorted cookies at Nightwood Before Nightwood came along, I headed to Pilsen for only one thing: Mexican food. Now, Jason Hammel and Amalea Tshilds have spun off from their much-loved Logan Square Lula Cafe to open a sophisticated modern American restaurant on South Halsted. Feels strange; guess I gotta get used to it. It shouldn’t be hard. Jason Vincent, the sous-chef at Lula for four years, is the chef de cuisine at Nightwood, and his organically inclined daily menu is irresistible. One minute you bite into big hunks of marinated cucumbers that startle with their fresh juiciness; next you taste the accompanying sweet apricots and realize how well the combination goes with the rich... [read full story]                    

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